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The fashion critic Cathy Horyn, writing about another of Brownes early runway shows, called him the anti Ralph Lauren, suggesting that whereas Laurens vision of American life was expansiveGatsbyesque gents in a classic roadster, a couple on a gleaming catamaranBrowne seems to see a culture shrinking to the point of implosion. Browne told me that he struggled, at first, to find a balance between the conceptual and the commercial. Menswear has experienced an unprecedented boom in recent years, according to Business of Fashion, an industry Web site

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